The Earthquake in Gansu
I’m saddened to hear about the 5.9 scaled earthquake that has struck the Gansu state of China in the last 24 hours. It is an area that I have a great appreciation for, having visited twice. I don’t often travel such great distances multiple times, but after my first visit to Gansu, I had to go back for more…more mountains, history, massive carvings in cliffs, temples, monasteries, noodle shops (their capital, Lanzhou, is known throughout China by name, the way a NY Pizza vs a Chicago Pizza is known… Lanzhou noodles are truly among the most popular).
The earthquake in the state of Gansu, Jishishan County, is well known as a wonderfully historic location with many sights to see for a person from another land who wants to see amazing things. One particular high point is Bingling Grottoes. This instillation of carvings, miles long, along a riverside cliff face are of the epic proportion that you’d maybe recall from the ones that the Taliban blew up. These sculptures date back to the first century! They are Buddhist carvings that were curated and crafted over a period of time that has lasted a genuine two thousand years. Lives have been lost due to this abrupt happening, and I hope that the pain can be as minimized by fast action as much as possible. As well, I hope for as minimal as possible, the destruction of the antique remnants of people who have come before and did their part to leave their mark.
Jishishan is part of a mountainous area also known as Amdo-Tibet, a northern region of the Tibetan Plateau that was in control of the kingdom of Tubo about twelve hundred years ago, but to this day has a substantial population that identifies as Tibetan. They speak the language, use the script, and pray to the yellow-hat priests who look to the lamas such as the famed Dalai Lama, who started his life as the leader of that group, as their leaders. These days, it is a complexly fraught situation of overlapping power brokers, using institutions for what they see as right. Not the point tonight. Tonight, mourning for the recent lost, both lives and possible historic bits as well.
Attached are some images from the Labrang Monastery in the Amdo-Tibet region where I visited in June and July of 2021.